Friday morning - June 25th

The extent of human suffering we are seeing here in the outlying villages of Moshi town is overwhelming ... literally leaving me speechless. However, the agony of the poverty, illness, rural isolation... seems to somehow be countered by this equally staggering (in my eyes) ability to survive and endure, to find joy and comfort where none should likely exist. And of course it is the women who lead us. The men, the vast majority as Mama Mrema pointed out yesterday, break under the weight of the frustration... they drink themselves into oblivion with local homebrew banana beer. They sit together under trees, they saunter around, bully and try to frighten with loud barks and hisses -- however; I feel no fear... only sadness for their pain. They are broken spirits who have simply caved under the weight of the pressure, ignorance, and lack of hope.

The women are different. They gather themselves and bond together. They lean on one other. Through their VIKOBAs (local village banks) they mobilize, unite, dance, laugh and give each other the leg up they need to survive. They stand before us and announce their solidarity -- they pray for their group's strength, trust, loyalty, and discipline. They know that they need the help a higher power in order to survive here and they announce, sing and proclaim their faith openly, loudly and joyfully. I think above all else, this is what keeps them strong.

I have a million stories to tell, so let me begin with one...

The other day we met a lovely woman named Romana -- 52 years old living with HIV. More than 10 years ago her husband abandoned her and her children when he discovered she was infected. He took everything ... as women are seen to have no rights to property or possessions. So with her two young children she moved to a single room shack in Moshi. She connected with WEECE (UNITE's partner -- The Women's Economic & Education Centre of Moshi -- www.weece.org) to apply for a small microloan. With her first tiny loan she started making batiks (they are gorgeous and I bought three of her batik embroidered dresses for Katharine, Lila and Harriett). Now, a few years and additional loans later (she proudly tells us she always repays her loans on time and with all interest), she has extended her business efforts to include timber sales (she travels to the bush from her urban area home to cut down trees and bring home the firewood); she taught herself masonry and carpentry and after saving a little money bought the little shack next door and by hand she connected the two structures. Now she has a space to live. Her children have grown and left, so she has taken in a "sister" who she cares for -- who is also living with HIV -- and she keeps a little storefront. Her barred 2x3 window is all she needs to run her small business. We asked Romana, a tiny but filled-with-life-and-spirit woman, how she stays alive. Does she take anti-retroviral drugs? No, she told us. The medicines are too expensive (we hear this about ALL kinds of medicine from all the people we meet in the outlying villages). She had vowed never to ever take another man. She works hard, exercises, eats as well as possible -- and, most importantly she tells us, she puts her faith and her life in the hands of God. She is not sad, she says, because she has accepted her disease as any other -- e.g. diabetes, cancer, etc. And she is now planning her first journey to Dar to sell her batiks along the roadside to earn more money.

Kim, David and I were amazed by the miraculous power of the human spirit encapsulated in this one tiny peasant woman... shining so brightly you could almost see it. Romana is one of many who has not only found the strength to endure and survive, but to thrive, love and flourish. Where does that kind of strength come from I wonder... Does it live in me?

The cool thing about Romana and her housemate Magdalena is that yesterday we awarded them both another loan to continue to grow their businesses -- one from Kim and my mom Kit Merriman and the other from our mom's best friend, our beloved Aunt Lucy Gardner. Two friends in America decided to reach out and help two friends in Tanzania... a world away... Wow how the tears flowed when we presented those incredible gifts!!!!

[By the way... after leaving, her husband moved to another area of Tanzania, married again, and shortly thereafter died from AIDS. His new wife has since died too.]

Must run now... I will try to write again. You can find a few pictures of our tour so far online on Facebook.com -- UNITE The World With Africa.

Thank you anyone who took the time to read this. God bless you and keep your heart open and strong!!!

Love & blessings,

Anne